El Calafate, Argentina

El Calafate’s big draw is the nearby Perito Moreno glacier, a massive wall of ice that – unlike many other glaciers – seems to be holding steady, neither advancing nor receding.  From the South Patagonian Ice Field it spills down into a lake before nearly crashing into a small peninsula, making it easy to get close-up views without having to board a boat (although many people do take a boat tour as well).

When I visited Perito Moreno in 2011 the weather was miserable – gray, drizzling skies and cold winds.  This time I gave myself two full days in El Calafate, hoping the sun would break through at some point.

On my first day I made it to the glacier by mid-morning only to find the exact same weather I had in 2011 – a sky full of clouds, frigid wind, light rain.  Crap!  I still enjoyed seeing the glacier, but it would have been more fun to find out what Perito Moreno looks like in the sunlight.

 

perito-moreno-tour-boat

Perito Moreno Tour Boat

 

perito-moreno-cloudy-portrait

Perito Moreno Cloudy Portrait

 

perito-moreno-boardwalk

Perito Moreno Boardwalk

 

perito-moreno-cloudy-landscape

Perito Moreno Cloudy Landscape

 

perito-moreno-and-mountains

Perito Moreno and Mountains

 

The weather forecast said to expect more of the same the next day, and – sure enough – after breakfast a quick look at the dark sky confirmed the gloomy prediction.  I didn’t even bother going back to the glacier.

The following morning I boarded a bus for El Chalten and hoped I’d have better luck with Fitz Roy.