Monthly Archive: April, 2011

Puerto Varas, Chile

Many of the backpackers I’ve met on this trip take offense if someone refers to them as a tourist.  “I’m not a tourist!” they protest indignantly, with more than a hint of self-righteousness. … Continue reading

Navimag Ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt, Chile

There were several ways to return north from Patagonia.  I could go back the way I came.  I could fly.  Or I could take the ferry from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt.  I… Continue reading

Torres del Paine National Park, Chile

In April the sun rises late in Patagonia.  When my alarm went off at 6:30am there wasn’t even the slightest hint of light in the sky.  I ate breakfast quickly and hit the… Continue reading

Puerto Natales, Chile

In what was beginning to feel like a familiar ritual, I walked in the early morning darkness from my hotel to the bus station.  It was time to leave Argentina and cross over… Continue reading

El Calafate, Argentina

A short bus ride took me from El Chaltén to El Calafate, a relatively large town at the southern end of Parque Nacional Los Glaciares.  El Calafate’s primary tourist attraction is the Perito… Continue reading

El Chaltén, Argentina

In 1901, Robert Parker and Harry Longabaugh – better known as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid – fled from the United States to a small cabin near the Patagonian town of Cholila,… Continue reading

Perito Moreno, Argentina

In the 6am dark I walked from my hotel to the departure point of my bus, only a few blocks away.  A light rain had fallen and the pavement glittered under the streetlights. … Continue reading

Bariloche, Argentina

I fell asleep in the seemingly endless suburban sprawl of Buenos Aires and woke to the barren, desaturated pre-dawn of Patagonia.  Patagonia!  Was I really here? With Patagonia it’s not entirely clear where… Continue reading